Inverter 12 volt til 230 volt med arduino version 1.1
Power inverter
Dette er version 1.1 af inverteren med arduino er beregnet til at blive brugt sammen med skrottede trafoer fra halogen lamper og andet elektronik. Det er en anden version af Inverter prototype v.1.0 PCB for trafoer med center input.
Denne version har også optokoplere for sikkerhed og stabilitet og har desuden h-bridge trin i udgangen til at trække trafo.
Der skal ikke bruges et arduino print, atmega328 med uno eller dueliminova bootloader er placeret direkte på printet og kan købes på ebay.co.uk med sokkel, krystal og kondensatorer for 35 kr.
Diagram til arduino inverter til trafoer med enkelt vikling. Da der er mosfets i H-bridge kopling på Printet, kan det også bruges til motorstyring feks. til en DIY elcykel, eller til at trække actuator i suntrackeren der er vist tidligere
Opdtatering 30-05-2014:
- C8: 330 uF til 1000 uF 25 volt
- C5, C6 : 22 – 27 pf
- C3, C4 : 10Uf
- C1, C2 , C7 : 100 nf
- R3, R15: 10K
- Atmega: både atmega168 og atmega328 virker, og der er brugt både en dueliminovo og uno bootloader
Det kan anbefales at eksperimentere med IRL mosfets istedet for IRF, idet IRL åbner helt ved 5 volt, det går IRF ikke, og der afsættes dermed mere varme.
Komponent placering for inverter printet
Arduino inverter PCB Toplayer
Download inverter v.1.1 arduino sketch, schematic og pcb filer herunder:
Arduino sketch:
Download EAGLE PCB og schematic file:
- Den originale Arduino Sketch for inverter er fra bristolwatch
- Stor tak til bristolwatch for et fedt projekt 😉
- [sociallocker id=”6971″] [/sociallocker]
- Eagle PCB fil for inverter med arduino kan downloades her
- ZIPpede file with eagle brd and sch file
- SMD printlayout version af inverteren lavet af ‘Crimier’
How do you deal with the interlock of top and bottom Mosfet ?
From the power schematics it looks like you don´t even care about an interlock, does that work fine ?
Hi, not sure if interlock is the diodes placed accross mosfets? I use them if the h-bridge is for driving a inductive load as a motor
What are the values of the capacitors C1, C2, C3, C4, C7 and C8?
Thanks a lot.. .
What are the capacitor values C1 to C7? I want to do this as a DUI than buy an inverter. Thanks a lot.
C5, C6 : 22 – 27 pf
C3, C4 : 10Uf
C1, C2 , C7 : 100 nf
Thanks a lot, man. What about C8, R3 and R15?
sorry for all the missing values, c8 is not critical, something like 330 uF to 1000 uf 25 volt or so.
r3, r15 are both 10K
also i have found that other mosfets give better performance, IRL instead of IRF because IRL are fets fore TTL(0 -5 volt) level fra the arduino atmel mcu
Thanks a lot, man…
A couple of more questions, sorry 🙂
1) The 4-pin wire-connectors at the input(12VDC) and output(220VAC). Why not just connect a 2-pin connector, as I can see from the schematics that you have shorted two pins together.
2) The transformer. Where did you get that one from? I am looking around to buy a used transformer from a microwave or other electrical appliance, as buying a new one is very expensive. Any suggestions?
I am trying to build an inverter for a 70W solar panel, that has about 20V-3A output. I will bring the input down from 20V to 12V using a LM7812 voltage regulator, and then feed it into the inverter circuit that you designed. Fingers crossed, it’s going to work. 🙂
Once again, thanks a lot for all the information.
Dont think you need to use a 7812, you can adjust output voltage with the trafo used. If you use 7812, maks current will be 1amp
Also, do you think I can get rid of the JP2 programmer pin if I already program the atmega168 using an Arduino Uno?
yes, no problem
Thanks a lot for your quick replies. I still have a few questions..
1) Why have you used 4-pin wire connectors at the input(12V) and output(240V), as I can see in the schematics that you have shorted two adjacent pins together. Won’t a 2pin connector do the job?
2) Any tips on choosing the transformer? What’s the difference between a small 12-220V transformer, and a big one like you have used? Is that dependent on the current? I aim to use this on a Solar panel that supplies around 21V(which I will limit to 12V) and about 3A current.
1. Just because i use two wires to lower the resistans in the cables
2. I had a lot of trafoes from 12volt halogen lamps that dont use any more
Thank you…
What was the output waveform like, on an oscilloscope? Was it a pure sinewave? And did you have to use a capacitor at the transformer output, for filtering?
No it’s not a sinewave inverter, so quare with noise
Finally tried the circuit… Everything works as expected, except that there is about 1.5V drop at the MOSFET. So two MOSFETs at any given cycle makes the overall voltage down from 12v to 9v (1.5+1.5 loss). Any suggestions on how to reduce this?
I tried different MOSFET and logic types have better performances. Some of them are Called irl istead of IRF
Hello!
Just curious – would it be possible to get Eagle schematics file? I’m interested in remaking this project a bit to reduce the size, this includes changing some parts to SMD and removing some parts. Could you, please, upload a full Eagle project archive?
Sincerely yours,
Arsenijs.
i will do so, it’s open source so you can use it as you like, hope you will make a link to it’s home (this site 😉 )
the sch and brd file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15995188/In-Duino-Delsol-08b-mkII.rar
Thank you very much!
Also, I haven’t had measured it yet, but isn’t it like ATMega48/88 would fit just fine?
i think so also, as this is not at time critic circuit
And the last question – could you, please, tell, which alternative models MOSFETs you have tested and which work better than other? What are the requirements that one should look at while searching for a replacement? I’m terribly sorry for all the questions I’ve asked – it’s just that I’m interested in this project a lot =)
the best one i tested was from a old atx motherboard, but in generel: use hexfets and use fets with low ron ohm
Hello again! I’ve remade your Eagle files, replacing many components with SMD. I haven’t had an opportunity to test it, but I hope you can correct some mistakes =) Link is here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/m45y7icphwkaqjl/inverter.rar?dl=0
I guess I’ll make a blog post about it later =)
Forgot to add that pinout got slightly changed, some LEDs and control pins – you can see it by schematics. Also, I think that when I will be able to make PCB and assemble everything, I’ll replace thermal sensor with DS18B20, just for compatibility =)
hey, this is a really nice smd pcb you have made, it is also usefull for other applications than like dc motor controller, high power switching and more. Looking forward to se your blog about the Development process. You can use googles blogger.com, you can later move blogger blogs to you own domain.
Hej Michael
Hvilke 2 typer mosfet anbefaler du af IRL. Hvilke 2 typer bruger du selv ?
Hilsen Tim
hey,
jeg endte op med at bruge skraldede mosfets fra pc bundkort, atx strømforsyninger mm.
men du kan finde både IRL P og N channal her:
http://www.irf.com/product/Power-MOSFETs-Single-Power-MOSFETs/_/N~1njci4#tab-tab1
Det du skal gå efter når du vælger komplementære mosfets er ron værdi, spænding og strøm, og så selvfølgeligt at det er e hexfet der åbner ved 5 volt
Which is the maximum output power?
I am looking to build an inverter to 1500w . What should I change in this project?
Thanks
Maksimum power depend on the trafo, mosfet used and also the pcb layout are critical. Be shure your load can handle tje spikes from this kind of inverter, as it is not af sinewave inverter. I primary use it to light and other stuff usind less than approximate 100 watr